Prestige drives up prices — we all know that. Brands are constantly competing to convince customers that they have the very best product.
And, in a world where everyone has an opinion and can advertise it online, it’s hard to tell what really matters.
Regarding men’s suits, there are objective elements to determine the quality, including the material, workmanship, and style.
We break down the basics, and how JoS. A. Bank’s suits compare.
Factors of Suit Quality
When you get past variables — like branding, store experience, and relationship marketing — there are three elements that determine the quality of a men’s suit: material, workmanship, and style.
1. Material
Cheap suits are made from cheap, synthetic fabrics, or synthetic-natural blended fibers to keep costs down. High-quality suits are made from natural fibers. Wool is the most common, although some high-end suits are made from silk, cotton, or natural-fiber blends like cashmere/wool or wool/silk. But even if a suit is made from 100% wool, there are different grades of wool. Recycled wool is the lowest quality; pure, new wool is standard.
Yarn count and fiber quality also matter. Wool yarn is graded according to “S numbers” and “Super-S numbers.” The “S number” of a yarn indicates how fine the fibers are and how many of them are woven per square inch. A “Super-S number” means the fabric is 95 to 100% pure, new wool or wool blended with a natural fiber like cashmere, mohair, alpaca, or silk. Quality suit yarns range from Super 100s to Super 160s. Anything lower than Super 100s will feel too rough (though it might work well for an overcoat), and anything higher than Super 160s will be too fragile for day-to-day wear.
Learn more about wool grades and fabric quality from textile expert Sonia Glyn Nicholson, the senior editor of Parisian Gentleman.
2. Workmanship
Producing clothes is labor-intensive. Mass production by machine (or in a sweatshop) is cheaper than hand tailoring and hand finishing. That cost savings also means a cut in quality. The highest-quality suits feature a lot of hand-work. They’re made by skilled tailors who are paid fairly.
High-quality suits also have quality interior construction, like canvas interlining stitched within the lapels to help maintain the jacket’s shape. Cheap suits often have synthetic interlining that’s glued in place; over time the adhesive breaks down and the suit may develop “bubbles” or puckers under the lapels. Other interior details make a difference too. Covering the curves and seams with fabric tape before adding the lining helps structure the jacket. Untaped seams are more likely to separate at stretch points. A suit with good interior construction means the suit will hang nicely, breathe better, and look good nearly forever if it’s well-cared for.
3. Style
Mass-produced suits are made with average measurements and simplified patterns that are easy to assemble. That means they fit everybody but don’t fit anybody well. Lower-end designs don’t naturally move with you and can feel awkward and uncomfortable. Tailoring a ready-made suit may help with the overall fit.
However, the most expensive suits are custom-made to your personal measurements. They are designed with proportions that flatter your body and look stylish. The better your suit fits, the more comfortable you’ll be and the more natural it will look on you.
Review of JoS. A. Bank’s Suit Quality
When comparing JoS. A. Bank’s suits to these standards, we can get a good picture of the brand’s overall quality.
JoS. A. Bank makes several different lines of suits, with varying price points and levels of quality: 1905, Traveler, Executive, Signature, Signature Gold, and Reserve.
Some details on the material and workmanship are drawn from JoS. A. Bank’s product descriptions. Other, more specific information, was published on the men’s fashion website Styleforum by a JoS. A. Bank representative.
1. Material
- 1905: Wool/spandex blend; no thread count or fiber quality specified
- Traveler: 100% wool; no S number specified
- Executive: 100% wool; Super 100s to Super 110s, according to Styleforum
- Signature: 100% wool; Super 110s to Super 120s, according to Styleforum
- Signature Gold: 100% wool; Super 120s to Super 130s, according to Styleforum
- Reserve: Super 110s wool
2. Workmanship
Note: All the suit lines have unfinished trouser hems for tailoring; JoS. A. Bank store locations have tailors on-site.
- 1905: Fused synthetic interlining
- Traveler: No quality features specified
- Executive: No quality features specified
- Signature: Tailored shoulders and pick-stitched details; buttonholes on the sleeves are put in by hand, according to your measurements.
- Signature Gold: Pick-stitched details, custom buttonholes, and a half-canvas chest piece
- Reserve: Pick-stitched details, half-canvas chest piece; this line is made in the U.S.
3. Style
JoS. A. Bank is known for classic, conservative tailoring. Some customers may consider the style “boxy” or “old-fashioned.” The 1905 line features more modern cuts.
The 1905 and Reserve lines are available as made-to-measure: tailored to you from a stock size. Customers are happy with the overall quality of the Reserve suits, for the price.
How Do Experts Rate JoS. A. Bank Suits?
Fashion experts describe JoS. A. Bank suits as good, but not impressive.
Business Insider magazine refers to JoS. A. Bank as a “standard for new grads” looking for a job on Wall Street. But the magazine didn’t include JoS. A. Bank in its Best Men’s Suits roundup, calling other brands “a step up.”
Find out how JoS. A. Bank compares to other men’s retailers in our investigation of men’s suit stores.
JoS. A. Bank Return Policy
JoS. A. Bank has a 90-day return policy. You can return any purchase within 90 days for a full refund, as long as you have the receipt.
JoS. A. Bank’s Quality Promise covers repairs if you’re unhappy with the quality of your purchase. If the store can’t repair your item, and you have your receipt, you can get store credit for the amount of your purchase.